September Lawn Care: Research-Based Guide for Fall Success

So here’s the thing about September lawn care. Most of what you read online is either way too simplified, kinda outdated, or just gets repeated because someone saw it somewhere else. I’ve been down this rabbit hole of reading actual turfgrass research (the boring peer-reviewed kind from universities, not random gardening blogs), and honestly? September is way more important than people realize – but you gotta do it right.

The timing matters because of basic plant biology. When air temps hit 60-75°F and soil stays around 50-65°F, cool-season grasses are basically in their peak growing phase. Meanwhile annual weeds like crabgrass are dying off. It’s this narrow window where everything lines up perfectly for lawn renovation work that’s nearly impossible to replicate in spring.

But – and this is important – what you do in September depends dramatically on where you live and what grass you’re growing. If you’re up north with Kentucky bluegrass, you should be aerating and overseeding aggressively. Down south with Bermuda or St. Augustine? You need to stop nitrogen entirely to avoid cold injury. Getting this wrong can set your lawn back months.

This is gonna be long because there’s a lot to unpack. But if you want your lawn to actually look good next spring instead of just hoping it magically gets better, keep reading.

Why Aeration Matters More Than You’d Think

Most people treat aeration as one of those optional things the lawn service tries to upsell you on. That’s actually a mistake.

Research from UMass Extension found that turfgrass in compacted soil shows 10-30% reduced nutrient uptake.[1] Think about that – potentially a third of your fertilizer investment going to waste because you haven’t addressed soil compaction.

The numbers get even more specific from research in the Agronomy Journal. In Kentucky bluegrass lawns, compaction reduced aeration porosity from 18.1% down to just 12.5% in the top three centimeters of soil.[2] Visual quality, shoot density, percent cover – all declined measurably. For perennial ryegrass, clipping weights dropped by 38% with moderate compaction and 53% with heavy compaction.[3] Water use fell by nearly half.

Here’s what’s happening underground that most people don’t get: compacted soil reduces oxygen available to roots while simultaneously holding onto water longer. It’s this combination that suffocates root systems. Penn State research shows root growth stops entirely when bulk density reaches 1.85 g/cm³ in sandy soils and just 1.47 g/cm³ in clay soils.[4] That’s not even hardpan clay – it’s soil you’d barely notice is compacted just by walking on it.

University of Maryland Extension makes a striking point: a compacted layer as thin as one-fourth to one-half inch can dramatically impede water infiltration and gas exchange between soil and atmosphere.[5] You don’t need solid clay to have a compaction problem.

Core Aeration vs Spike Aeration Isn’t Even Close

Every university extension source I found agrees on this: spike aerators make compaction worse, not better. West Virginia University Extension explains it plainly – “spike aerators poke holes and cause compaction around the holes,” pressing soil into denser masses rather than relieving pressure.[6]

Core aerators work completely differently. They pull soil plugs approximately ½ to ¾ inch in diameter, 2-4 inches deep, and 2-6 inches apart – physically removing material and leaving space for soil expansion.[5] University of Illinois Extension confirms that spike aerators “can cause more compaction pressing soil together around the holes.”[7]

For best results, Michigan State recommends aerating when soil is moist but not wet – wet conditions cause plugs to stick inside tines. Water the lawn a day before if soil is dry. Most importantly, make multiple passes. West Virginia notes that most machines only cover a small percentage of area per pass, so two or three overlapping runs dramatically improve results.[6]

Timing matters too. Aerate during active grass growth so the lawn recovers quickly. For cool-season grasses that means late August through mid-October in most northern regions. Penn State suggests this gives lawns four to six weeks of recovery before winter dormancy.[8]

What Aeration Actually Costs

If you’re renting equipment:

• Walk-behind core aerator: $90-108/day
• Towable core aerator: $75-100/day
• Time investment: 2-4 hours for 5,000-10,000 sq ft

Professional service runs around $150-250 for an average yard, which honestly isn’t that bad considering the equipment and time involved.

The Narrow Window for Overseeding Success

Overseeding timing is less forgiving than most people realize. University turfgrass programs across the country converge on a remarkably similar window: mid-August through mid-September for most northern locations. Purdue and Nebraska-Lincoln both pinpoint August 15 to September 15 as the sweet spot.[9][10]

The temperature requirements explain why. Cool-season grass seed germinates best when soil temps range from 50-65°F and air temps stay between 60-75°F.[10][11] Nebraska warns that if air temps exceed 80°F, “there is a higher chance of cool-season turfgrass seed not growing effectively.”[10]

 

Different species have dramatically different germination windows:

• Perennial ryegrass: 5-10 days (the fastest option)
• Tall fescue: 7-14 days
• Kentucky bluegrass: 14-28 days (slowest, needs patience)[11][12]

This timeline matters for planning. If you’re overseeding with Kentucky bluegrass in the northern Midwest, seeding after mid-September doesn’t give seedlings enough time to establish before winter. Penn State specifically advises against seeding “later than mid-October” for most Pennsylvania locations.[8]

Seeding Rates That Actually Work

Overseeding rates differ from new lawn establishment – you’re filling gaps, not starting from scratch. University recommendations cluster around these numbers:

• Kentucky bluegrass overseeding: ~2 lbs per 1,000 sq ft
• Tall fescue overseeding: 3-4 lbs per 1,000 sq ft[13][14]
• Perennial ryegrass overseeding: 4-5 lbs per 1,000 sq ft

Iowa State suggests mixing tall fescue (90-95%) with Kentucky bluegrass (5-10%) for uniform establishment in transition zones.[15]

Seed-to-soil contact determines success more than any other factor. University of Maryland emphasizes that seeds must physically contact soil and have space to germinate. Simply broadcasting seed onto crusted soil “will result in poor germination and an uneven stand,” according to Kansas State.[13][14]

The best preparation methods, ranked by effectiveness:

1. Verticutting (slicing into soil) – Kansas State calls this “the best method”[14]
2. Heavy core aeration (6-8 passes) – creates thousands of soil contact points
3. Dethatching first if thatch exceeds ½ inch

Cornell research on sports fields found that weekly overseeding with perennial ryegrass maintained almost 90% turf density under traffic.[16] But Kentucky bluegrass “proved completely ineffective under regular traffic” due to its long germination and establishment requirements.[16] Choose your species based on conditions, not just preference.

Watering New Seed Without Drowning It

The watering regimen for newly seeded lawns differs completely from established turf care. University of Minnesota recommends irrigation 4 times daily for 5 minutes each until germination, aiming to “water as little as possible, but enough to keep the new seed and soil moist.”[17]

Nebraska and Oklahoma State both suggest light watering up to three or four times daily initially, then transitioning to less frequent but deeper watering once grass establishes.[10][18] The key risk is overwatering – Nebraska warns that excessive moisture “can lead to susceptibility of turfgrass diseases.”[10]

University of Illinois notes that “regular watering is essential for about two weeks,” with Kentucky bluegrass potentially requiring an extended watering period of three to four weeks given its longer germination timeline.[19]

Fall Fertilization Builds the Foundation for Spring

Biggest mistake homeowners make with fertilization is front-loading nitrogen in spring when they should be emphasizing fall applications. Purdue University recommends applying 50-60% of your total annual nitrogen between late summer and mid-fall – Labor Day through Halloween for most regions.[20]

This counterintuitive timing works because of how grass physiology changes in autumn. Penn State explains that “late summer to early fall is the time of year when cool-season grasses begin to manufacture and store carbohydrates.”[8] These carbohydrates fuel root growth, disease resistance, and winter hardiness – functions that spring nitrogen actually undermines by stimulating excessive shoot growth.

Ohio State’s turfgrass pathology program puts it directly: nitrogen applied during early spring “decreases the levels of available carbohydrates in the plant, resulting in depressed root growth rates.” Late-season applications have “no similar negative effects on root growth and, in fact, increase root growth during mid winter to early spring.”[21]

Application Rates and NPK Ratios Backed by Research

For fall applications, most universities recommend 1 to 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per 1,000 square feet. Michigan State emphasizes never exceeding 1 pound of nitrogen per application in quick-release form to avoid burn and leaching.[22]

The NPK ratio for fall fertilizers should reflect fall’s goals – root development and carbohydrate storage, not leafy growth. University recommendations cluster around 3-1-2 or 4-1-2 ratios (nitrogen-phosphorus-potassium).[23] Products like 16-4-8 or 24-0-12 fit this profile. Minnesota Extension specifically recommends “24-0-12 for many lawns, and 24-0-18 to add a little more potassium for winter hardiness.”[24]

Virginia Tech provides precise timing guidance: apply low rates of nitrogen (around 1 lb per 1,000 sq ft) in late fall when cool temperatures have reduced top growth but root growth remains active. The nitrogen gets used to “set up the plant” for winter and healthy spring growth.[25]

The cutoff matters too. Purdue’s rule of thumb: “if Halloween has come and gone, put the fertilizer spreader away.”[20] Michigan State research found that applications prior to November result in better nitrogen uptake and minimize leaching potential during late fall and winter.[22]

Fall Weed Control Exploits Plant Physiology

September through early November represents the most effective window for controlling perennial broadleaf weeds – and the reason is simple plant biology. Iowa State Extension explains that perennial weeds are actively “transporting carbohydrates from foliage to roots” in fall, preparing for winter.[26] Herbicides applied during this period get carried directly to root systems along with those carbohydrates, killing the entire plant rather than just burning down top growth.

Michigan State’s Kevin Frank confirms that summer applications “only burn down top-growth but often fail to kill entire plant.” Fall applications are genuinely systemic.[27]

Temperature determines effectiveness. Clemson recommends applying broadleaf herbicides when air temps range from 65-85°F.[28] Above 85°F risks turf damage; below 50°F means weeds aren’t actively growing enough to absorb herbicides.

The Critical Waiting Period Before Overseeding

Herbicides and overseeding don’t mix – and the waiting period is longer than most product labels suggest. University of Illinois and Ask Extension recommend waiting minimum 2-3 weeks, ideally 3-4 weeks after applying products containing 2,4-D, mecoprop, or dicamba before seeding.[26][29]

Going the other direction, wait for three “real” mowings or at least 60 days after grass germinates before applying herbicides to new seedlings, according to Michigan State.[27] Young grass simply can’t handle the stress.

One exception: mesotrione (Tenacity) can be applied at seeding for most grasses except fine fescue. Quinclorac products can also be applied at or close to seeding without damage to most turf types.[29]

Mowing Height Protects Root Systems Heading Into Winter

The one-third rule isn’t arbitrary – it reflects how grass physiology works. Grass blades are the only parts of the plant capable of photosynthesis. Clemson HGIC explains that cutting one-third of the blade removes roughly half of the plant’s photosynthetic capability.[28] Removing more constitutes “scalping,” which depletes carbohydrate reserves needed for root development and winter survival.

For most cool-season lawns, maintain heights between 2.5-3 inches through fall. Specific recommendations vary by species:

• Kentucky bluegrass: 2.5-3 inches (spring/fall), up to 3.5 inches in summer stress[30]
• Tall fescue: 3-4 inches[28]
• Perennial ryegrass: 2.5-3 inches[30]

University of Missouri notes that “taller grass has deeper roots and a lower tendency to wilt.”[31] Higher mowing also provides shading that reduces soil surface temperatures and suppresses weed germination.

As growth slows in late fall, reduce mowing frequency but maintain height. Iowa State notes you may only need to mow once every one to two weeks as temps drop, compared to every four to five days during spring’s rapid growth.[32] The first and last mowings of the year can be slightly shorter, but never scalp the lawn before winter – this removes insulation the crown needs.

Leave Some Clippings

Contrary to popular belief, grass clippings don’t contribute significantly to thatch. Illinois Extension confirms clippings are 75-85% water and decompose rapidly, returning nutrients to the soil.[33] Only bag clippings when they’re excessive and would smother the lawn.

Soil Testing Reveals What’s Actually Happening Underground

Most lawn problems trace back to soil conditions that homeowners never test for. Penn State and Michigan State both recommend sampling 8-15 random locations across your lawn, collecting from 3-4 inch depth for established turf.[34][35]

Key metrics to evaluate:

• Soil pH: Optimal range is 6.0-7.0 for most turfgrasses. Below 6.0, major nutrients become less available and aluminum toxicity risk increases. Above 8.0, micronutrients like iron become unavailable.
• Phosphorus and potassium levels: Determines fertilizer needs
• Organic matter percentage: Affects water retention and microbial activity

Penn State Extension states directly: “although home test kits can provide a fairly good indication of soil pH, they cannot provide meaningful liming recommendations.”[34] Professional lab tests use buffer pH methods to calculate actual lime requirements based on your soil’s specific chemistry. University soil testing labs typically charge $20-50 and provide actionable recommendations.

If lime is needed, apply based on soil test results only – never annually without testing. Maximum single application is 100 lbs per 1,000 sq ft for established lawns.[8] Fall applications work well because rain, snow, and freeze-thaw cycles help incorporate lime into soil.

Thatch Becomes Problematic Faster Than You’d Expect

Thatch is the spongy layer of dead and living shoots, stems, and roots between green vegetation and soil. A thin layer (under ½ inch) actually benefits lawns by providing insulation and resiliency. The problem starts when thatch exceeds ½ inch – and becomes serious at 1 inch or more.[36]

 

Penn State’s Peter Landschoot notes that thatch composition is about 25% lignin, which resists decay.[36] This explains why grass clippings don’t contribute significantly to thatch – they’re 75-85% water and decompose rapidly. The real culprits are stem nodes, crowns, and roots from aggressive grass species like Kentucky bluegrass, zoysiagrass, and bermudagrass.

Excessive thatch creates multiple problems: it harbors disease organisms and insects, roots develop in the thatch layer where they’re vulnerable to desiccation, and some fungicides and insecticides bind in thatch rather than reaching soil.[36] Penn State notes that thatch over 2 inches is “almost impossible to reduce without severely thinning turf.”[36]

For cool-season grasses, dethatch in late August through early October – the same window as other fall renovation work.[8][37] Core aeration can help manage thatch while causing less damage than power raking. Topdressing with 1/8 to 1/4 inch of compost after aeration adds microorganisms that accelerate thatch decomposition.[37][38]

Regional Timing Determines Everything

The same September task that revitalizes a northern lawn can devastate a southern one. Understanding your grass type and climate zone isn’t optional – it’s the foundation of successful fall care.

 

Cool-Season Zones (Northern Regions)

September is prime time for virtually every major lawn task. Michigan State, Penn State, and other northern land-grant universities all emphasize this window for aeration, overseeding, and primary fall fertilization.[8][22] The combination of warm days, cool nights, and reduced weed pressure creates conditions that won’t recur until the following fall.

Specific timing windows by region:

• Michigan: August 15 – September 15 for overseeding
• Pennsylvania: Late August – mid-October (earlier preferred)[8]
• Iowa: Mid-August to mid-September
• Missouri: August 25 – October 10

Warm-Season Zones (Southern Regions)

Stop nitrogen applications. Georgia Extension warns explicitly against September fertilization for warm-season lawns – it delays dormancy, causes cold injury, and promotes Spring Dead Spot disease. Texas A&M recommends the last nitrogen application occur 6 weeks before the first historic frost date.[39]

September tasks for warm-season lawns focus on dormancy preparation: apply pre-emergent herbicides for winter weeds before soil temps drop below 55°F, raise mowing height slightly to encourage deeper roots, and reduce watering frequency as growth slows.

Clemson explicitly warns against fall overseeding with ryegrass – it weakens the permanent lawn by stealing resources during spring green-up.[40]

Transition Zones

The transition zone – running from Maryland through Virginia, Tennessee, and into Kansas – presents the toughest challenge. Virginia Tech calls it the “Twilight Zone” where neither cool-season nor warm-season grasses find optimal conditions.

For transition zone homeowners growing cool-season grasses (primarily tall fescue), September timing follows northern schedules. NC State recommends overseeding tall fescue between September 1 and October 1 in the Piedmont and Coastal Plain regions.

For warm-season grasses in transition zones, follow southern protocols: stop nitrogen, prepare for dormancy, and apply pre-emergents for winter weeds.

The Correct Order of Operations (This Actually Matters)

If you’re doing multiple tasks, the sequence affects results. Here’s the order that works:

1. Mow low (2-2.5 inches) and remove clippings
2. Dethatch if thatch exceeds ½ inch
3. Core aerate with multiple passes
4. Apply seed immediately while holes are open
5. Apply starter fertilizer
6. Begin watering multiple times daily

The timing is important because you want seed dropping into those fresh aeration holes. If you wait a day or two after aerating, the holes start closing and you lose that benefit.

Common Mistakes That Derail Fall Renovation

After reading hundreds of forum posts and university extension Q&As, these are the mistakes that come up repeatedly:

Applying pre-emergent herbicide then trying to overseed Pre-emergents prevent ALL germination, including your grass seed. You can’t use both at the same time. If you applied pre-emergent in late summer, you need to wait until spring to overseed.

Seeding too late After September 29 in most northern areas, you’re pushing it. Seedlings need 4-6 weeks of good growing conditions before winter.[9]

Using spike aerators on compacted soil Makes compaction worse, not better. Spend the extra money to rent a core aerator.[6]

Aerating dry soil Plugs won’t pull out properly. Water 24 hours before aerating if soil is dry.[6]

Letting seedbed dry out between waterings Seed that dries out after starting to germinate is dead. Keep it consistently moist.[10]

Over-fertilizing warm-season grass with nitrogen after mid-September Delays dormancy and sets up winter damage. Just don’t.[39]

When Overseeding Fails (And Why)

If your overseeding doesn’t work, the most common culprits are:

1. Insufficient seed-to-soil contact (seed just sitting on top of compacted ground)
2. Inconsistent watering (letting it dry out)
3. Soil temps outside the 50-65°F range
4. Seeding too late (not enough time before winter)
5. Wrong grass species for your conditions

A $15 soil thermometer eliminates the temperature guesswork. Stick it in the ground at 2-3 inches deep. If it’s not consistently in the 50s-60s, wait or start earlier next year.

What Actually Matters Most

After going through all this research, here’s what really makes the difference:

Aerate to relieve compaction that may be costing you 10-30% of nutrient uptake. This isn’t optional if you have clay soil or heavy traffic.[1]

Overseed during the August 15-September 15 window when germination conditions peak. Outside this window, success rates drop significantly.[9][10]

Front-load fertilization in fall rather than spring to build carbohydrate reserves that fuel root development.[8][20]

For cool-season lawns, September represents your single best opportunity for meaningful improvement. For warm-season lawns, it’s the month to stop pushing growth and start preparing for dormancy. Getting this distinction wrong creates problems that persist well into the following year.

The investment in fall renovation compounds. Today’s core aeration improves nutrient uptake for years. This month’s overseeding fills gaps before winter annual weeds can claim that space. Fall-applied nitrogen builds the root mass that carries your lawn through summer stress. The work you do in the next few weeks determines what your lawn looks like next June.

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Sources

[1] University of Massachusetts Extension. Compaction and Cultivation. https://ag.umass.edu/home-lawn-garden/fact-sheets/compaction-cultivation

[2] Carrow, R.N. (1982). Kentucky Bluegrass Growth and Water Use Under Different Soil Compaction and Irrigation Regimes. Agronomy Journal, 74(6). https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/10.2134/agronj1982.00021962007400060002x

[3] Carrow, R.N. (1983). Perennial Ryegrass Growth, Water Use, and Soil Aeration Status under Soil Compaction. Agronomy Journal, 75(2). https://acsess.onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/epdf/10.2134/agronj1983.00021962007500020005x

[4] Tracy, S.R., et al. (2019). Soil compaction and the architectural plasticity of root systems. PMC. https://pmc.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/articles/PMC6859514/

[5] University of Maryland Extension. Lawn Aeration. https://extension.umd.edu/resource/lawn-aeration

[6] West Virginia University Extension. Lawn Aeration. https://extension.wvu.edu/lawn-gardening-pests/lawn/lawn-aeration

[7] University of Illinois Extension. (2020). Lawn Aeration and Overseeding. https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2020-09-10-lawn-aeration-and-overseeding

[8] Penn State Extension. Lawn Management through the Seasons. https://extension.psu.edu/lawn-management-through-the-seasons

[9] Terra Lawn Care. Should You Aerate Your Lawn in the Fall? https://www.terra-lawn-care.com/fall-lawn-aeration/

[10] University of Nebraska-Lincoln Turf. Overseeding in the Fall. https://turf.unl.edu/news/overseeding-fall/

[11] Barenbrug. The Perfect Temperature for Lawn Seed Germination. https://www.barusa.com/homeowner/challenges-solutions/perfect-temperature-lawn-seed-germination-what-every-homeowner

[12] Jonathan Green. How cold is too cold for grass seed? https://www.jonathangreen.com/resources/too-cold-for-grass-seed/

[13] Kansas State University Extension. Lawn Seeding in the Fall. https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/programs/lawn-garden/agent-articles-fact-sheets-and-more/agent-articles/lawns/seeding-fall-lawn.html

[14] Kansas State University Extension. Fall Lawn Seeding. https://www.johnson.k-state.edu/programs/lawn-garden/agent-articles-fact-sheets-and-more/agent-articles/lawns/seeding-fall-lawn.html

[15] Iowa State Extension. Turf-type Tall Fescue. https://yardandgarden.extension.iastate.edu/how-to/all-about-tall-fescue-low-maintenance-alternative-kentucky-bluegrass

[16] Cornell Safe Sports Fields. Overseeding. https://safesportsfields.cals.cornell.edu/routine-care/overseeding/

[17] University of Minnesota Turf. An overseeding success story. https://turf.umn.edu/overseeding-success-story

[18] Oklahoma State Extension. A Greener Spring Lawn Means Overseeding This Fall. https://extension.okstate.edu/announcements/grow-gardening-columns/2025/october-5-2025.html

[19] University of Illinois Extension. Lawn Aeration and Overseeding. https://extension.illinois.edu/blogs/good-growing/2020-09-10-lawn-aeration-and-overseeding

[20] Penn State Extension. Turfgrass Fertilization: A Basic Guide. https://extension.psu.edu/turfgrass-fertilization-a-basic-guide-for-professional-turfgrass-managers

[21] Ohio State Turfgrass Pathology Program. Benefits of Late Fall Fertilization. https://turfdisease.osu.edu/news/benefits-late-fall-fertilization-0

[22] Michigan State Extension. Improving soil conditions for turf with fall aeration. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/improving_soil_conditions_for_turf_with_fall_aeration

[23] Lawnstarter. How to Choose the Best Fall Lawn Fertilizer. https://www.lawnstarter.com/blog/lawn-care-2/how-to-choose-best-fall-lawn-fertilizer/

[24] University of Minnesota Extension. Fall lawn care starts now. https://extension.umn.edu/yard-and-garden-news/fall-lawn-care

[25] Virginia Tech Extension. Late Fall Nitrogen Fertilization For Cool Season Grasses. https://www.sites.ext.vt.edu/newsletter-archive/cses/2003-11/latefall.html

[26] Iowa State Extension. Pre-emergence Crabgrass Control. https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-pre-emergence-crabgrass-control

[27] Michigan State Extension. Weed Control Timing and Best Practices. https://www.canr.msu.edu/turf/

[28] Clemson HGIC. Mowing Height Matters. https://hgic.clemson.edu/mowing-height-matters/

[29] Nebraska Extension. Spring Lawn Overseeding. https://lancaster.unl.edu/spring-lawn-overseeding/

[30] University of Illinois Extension. Mowing Your Lawn. https://extension.illinois.edu/lawns/mowing-your-lawn

[31] University of Missouri Extension. Managing Lawns and Turfgrass. https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/mg10

[32] Iowa State Extension. Yard and Garden: Lawn Mowing. https://www.extension.iastate.edu/news/yard-and-garden-lawn-mowing

[33] University of Illinois Extension. Fertilizing Your Lawn. https://extension.illinois.edu/lawns/fertilizing-your-lawn

[34] Penn State Extension. Lawn Management through the Seasons. https://extension.psu.edu/lawn-management-through-the-seasons

[35] Michigan State Extension. Soil testing instructions using MSU Extension’s Home Lawn and Garden Soil Test Mailer. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/soil_testing_instructions_using_msu_extensions_home_lawn_and_garden_soil_te

[36] Penn State Extension. Managing Thatch in Lawns. https://extension.psu.edu/managing-thatch-in-lawns

[37] University of Minnesota Extension. How to control thatch in your lawn. https://extension.umn.edu/lawn-care/how-control-thatch-your-lawn

[38] Michigan State Extension. Improving soil conditions for turf with fall aeration. https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/improving_soil_conditions_for_turf_with_fall_aeration

[39] Texas A&M AgriLife Extension. Warm-Season Turfgrass Fertilization. https://aggie-horticulture.tamu.edu/

[40] Clemson Extension. Fall Lawn Care for Warm-Season Grasses. https://hgic.clemson.edu/