How to Collect Lavender Seeds (And Get Them to Germinate)

So here’s the thing about collecting lavender seeds. Most articles make it sound super simple – just wait til the flowers dry, shake them around, boom you’ve got seeds. And technically that’s true. But if you actually want those seeds to grow into plants? That’s where it gets interesting.

I’ve been growing lavender for years now and honestly the seed collection part is the easy bit. It’s everything after that trips people up. The germination rates, the cold treatment stuff, knowing which varieties even produce viable seeds in the first place. A lot of the advice out there is either oversimplified or just straight up wrong.

After reading actual research on this (the boring peer-reviewed kind) and screwing it up enough times myself, I figured out what actually matters. So here’s the complete breakdown.

First – Not All Lavenders Even Make Real Seeds

Before you start collecting anything you gotta know if your lavender will even produce seeds that grow.

Here’s what nobody tells you: those popular lavandin hybrids everyone plants? Lavandula × intermedia varieties like ‘Grosso’, ‘Provence’, ‘Phenomenal’? They’re sterile. [1] Like completely. You can collect their seeds all day long and they won’t germinate because they can’t. It’s a hybrid thing.

English lavender (Lavandula angustifolia) is what you want. Varieties like ‘Munstead’, ‘Hidcote’, ‘Vera’ produce actual viable seeds. There’s this one cultivar called ‘Lady’ that’s exceptional – gets a 78% germination rate according to NC State Extension, which is crazy good for lavender. [2]

Spanish and French lavender (Lavandula stoechas) technically produces seeds but research shows “heterogeneous and low germination.” [3] Translation: hit or miss, mostly miss.

So step one is making sure you’re not wasting time on sterile plants.

The Biology Thing (Why Timing Actually Matters)

Lavender seeds form inside these tiny dried calyxes – that’s the little cup that held each flower. After the purple petals fade and fall off, seeds mature inside those dried structures over 2-3 weeks typically.

There’s some interesting research from 2024 in the Seeds journal about lavender pollination. They found that even without bees visiting, English lavender achieves about 1.8% seed set from self-pollination (461 seeds from ~25,000 potential flowers). [4] With just one bee visit, that jumped to 3.1%, and those bee-pollinated seeds showed 88-93% germination versus 79% for self-pollinated ones. [4]

The practical takeaway? If you want maximum seeds, let the bees do their thing before you harvest.

When to Actually Harvest (Don’t Wait Too Long)

Timing is weirdly specific with this. Too early and seeds are immature and won’t germinate. Too late and they literally fall on the ground before you can collect them.

What works: wait until flowers have completely faded from purple to gray-brown. They should feel papery and brittle, not soft. The “shake test” is your best indicator – hold a dried flower head over your hand and tap it gently. If tiny dark seeds fall out, you’re good. If nothing happens, give it another week. [5]

Harvest in late summer, typically late August through September depending where you live. Morning after dew dries but before it gets hot is ideal – prevents condensation issues during storage. [6]

One important thing: don’t deadhead flowers you want seeds from. I know it goes against every gardening instinct but those fading blooms need to stay on the plant.

How I Actually Collect Them

There’s two main methods and honestly both work fine.

Paper Bag Method (Most Reliable)

This is what most extension services recommend:

1. Cut entire flower stalks when flowers are fully dried but before seed heads start dropping seeds
2. Bundle 10-15 stems together with twine or rubber band
3. Put the flower end down into a paper bag
4. Hang somewhere warm, dry, well-ventilated for 1-2 weeks
5. Shake the bag every few days – seeds fall to the bottom as they finish drying
6. Once totally dry, roll flower heads between your fingers over a bowl to get remaining seeds

Direct Collection (Quicker)

If seeds are already dropping:

1. Hold a container under dried flower heads
2. Tap gently – seeds drop along with some chaff
3. Repeat across the plant

For cleaning, pour everything onto a flat surface and blow lightly across it. Chaff blows away, heavier seeds stay. You can also use a fine mesh sieve. Don’t stress about getting it perfect – a little plant debris won’t hurt germination.

The seeds themselves are tiny, about half the size of a sesame seed, oval-shaped, dark brown to black when mature. [7]

Storage (Where Most People Screw Up)

Seeds are alive even when dormant and improper storage kills them. The three enemies are heat, moisture, and light.

USDA research recommends this rule: temperature (°F) + relative humidity (%) should be less than 100. [8] So if you’re storing at 50°F, humidity should be under 50%.

What Actually Works

Two-container system:

1. Inner container: Paper envelope or small breathable pouch with seeds
2. Outer container: Sealed glass jar with silica gel packet or dry rice

Store in refrigerator (32-50°F / 0-10°C) in darkness. Label everything with variety and collection date.

How Long They Last

This is important because lavender seeds have relatively short shelf life:

• Best results: Within 1 year of collection
• Good viability: 2-3 years with proper refrigerated storage
• Possible but reduced: Up to 5 years

Research from Kew’s Millennium Seed Bank shows professional storage at -20°C can extend this to decades, but that’s overkill for home gardeners. [9]

The Cold Treatment Thing (This Is Why Yours Aren’t Germinating)

Here’s where most people fail. Lavender seeds have evolved to need cold winter temperatures before spring germination. Without simulating this, your rates plummet.

There’s a 2014 study from West Pomeranian University that tested cold stratification on L. angustifolia at 4°C (39°F): [10]

So yeah, cold treatment literally more than triples your germination. The study also found cultivar-specific requirements – ‘Hidcote Superior’ needs 8-10 weeks for best results, while the species type does fine with 6 weeks. [10]

How to Actually Do It

Paper Towel Method:

1. Moisten paper towel, wring out excess
2. Spread seeds across towel
3. Fold and put in plastic bag (leave slightly open for air)
4. Refrigerate 3-6 weeks at 35-40°F

Soil Tray Method:

1. Press seeds onto surface of damp seed-starting mix (don’t bury them – they need light to germinate)
2. Cover tray with humidity dome
3. Put entire tray in fridge 3-4 weeks
4. After cold treatment, move to warm bright location

Germination Requirements (What the Research Actually Shows)

After stratification, seeds need specific conditions:

Temperature: Utah State University Extension specifies 70°F (21°C) as optimal, recommends using a heating mat. [11]

Light: This is critical – lavender seeds are light-germinators. Press them onto soil surface or cover with no more than 1/8 inch of soil or fine vermiculite. Burying them is why a lot of people get zero germination. [11]

Timing: Germination typically starts in 14-28 days but can take 2-3 months. Total time from seeding to transplant-ready seedlings is 100-200 days according to Utah State. [11]

What to Expect: Even with perfect technique, expect 50-60% germination from well-stored, stratified English lavender seeds. The ‘Lady’ cultivar’s 78% rate is exceptional. Always sow more than you need.

Common Problems People Run Into

Seeds won’t germinate:

• Most common: skipped cold stratification or didn’t do it long enough
• Second most common: buried seeds too deep (need light)
• Solution: Refrigerate 4-6 weeks minimum, surface sow, provide 12-18 hours light daily

Really low germination:

• Seeds might be from hybrid lavender (sterile)
• Seeds too old or improperly stored
• Solution: Verify variety is English lavender, use fresh seeds

Damping off (seedlings collapse):

• Fungal pathogens in cool wet conditions
• Solution: Sterile seed mix, don’t overwater, provide air circulation with small fan, bottom-water instead of top-water

Leggy weak seedlings:

• Not enough light
• Solution: Grow lights 1-2 inches from seedlings, 14-16 hours daily

What University Extensions Actually Recommend

Here’s something worth knowing. Most university extension publications don’t actually recommend growing lavender from seed for any kind of production use. NC State Extension states plainly that “propagation by seed is slow (six months to transplant size) and germination rates are low and sporadic” and plants grown from seed are “variable in growth habit, color, and essential oil composition.” [2]

The preferred method is cuttings, which root in 14-40 days with 95-100% success rates when done right. [2]

However, for home gardeners who enjoy the process and accept some variation, seed propagation works fine if you’re patient.

Timeline From Start to Finish

What Actually Matters Most

After going through all the research and trial and error, here’s what makes the difference:

1. Species selection – English lavender only, not hybrids
2. Proper harvest timing – Gray-brown, papery, passes shake test
3. Good storage – Cool, dry, dark, in breathable then sealed containers
4. Cold stratification – 3-6 weeks minimum at 35-40°F
5. Surface sowing – Seeds need light to germinate
6. Patience – This takes 6+ months from seed to plantable size

The propagation-by-cuttings route is honestly faster and more reliable if you just want more plants. But there’s something satisfying about growing from seed you collected yourself, even if it takes forever and the germination rates aren’t great.

Start with realistic expectations, follow the actual science on cold treatment and light requirements, and you’ll get some plants. Just not necessarily a whole field of them.

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Sources

[1] Colorado State University Extension. (2025). “Growing Lavender in Colorado.” C.E. Swift and K.A. Kimbrough.

[2] NC State Extension. (2025). “Lavender: History, Taxonomy, and Production.” Joe-Ann McCoy, Ph.D., updated by Jeanine Davis, Ph.D. https://newcropsorganics.ces.ncsu.edu/herb/lavender-history-taxonomy-and-production/

[3] Springer Research. “Germination characteristics of Lavandula stoechas.”

[4] Ingram, S.S. et al. (2024). “Pollination and Seed Production of Lavandula angustifolia Mill.” Seeds 3(2): 276-285. MDPI. https://www.mdpi.com/2674-1024/3/2/21

[5] SF Gate Home Guides. “How to Harvest Lavender Seeds.” https://homeguides.sfgate.com/harvest-lavender-seeds-62742.html

[6] Get Busy Gardening. “How To Collect Lavender Seeds From Your Garden.” https://getbusygardening.com/collect-lavender-seeds-garden/

[7] Backyard Garden Lover. “How To Collect Lavender Seeds In 3 Easy Steps.” https://www.backyardgardenlover.com/how-to-collect-lavender-seeds/

[8] Johnny’s Selected Seeds. “Seed Viability & Storage Guide.” https://www.johnnyseeds.com/growers-library/methods-tools-supplies/harvesting-handling-storage/seed-storage-guidelines.html

[9] Royal Botanic Gardens, Kew. Millennium Seed Bank protocols for seed conservation.

[10] Dobrowolska, A. & Zawadzińska, A. (2014). “The Influence of Stratification on Seedling Emergence and Growth of Narrow-Leaved Lavender and its Cultivars.” International Journal of Plant & Soil Science 3(8): 948-958. http://research.article2submit.com/1136/1/Dobrowolska382014IJPSS9861.pdf

[11] Utah State University Extension. (2020). “How to Grow English Lavender in Your Garden.” Keenen Crummitt and Dan Drost. https://extension.usu.edu/yardandgarden/research/english-lavender-in-the-garden

Additional Research Sources:

Washington State University Extension. “Growing and Marketing Lavender” (EB2005E). Curtis E. Beus.

Penn State Extension. “Agritourism Diversification: Lavender Production” (2023).

Illinois Extension. “Lavender” (2014).

Twin Flame Lavender Farm Michigan. “Comprehensive Guide for Successfully Germinating Lavender from Seed.” https://twinflamelavender.farm/3-hacks-4-myths-busted-comprehensive-guide-for-successfully-germinating-lavender-from-seed-in-7-days/

Eco-Friendly Homestead. “Lavender from Seed: Full Growing Guide.” https://www.ecofriendlyhomestead.com/sustainable-garden/learn/lavender-from-seed-full-growing-guide

Michigan State University Extension. “Growing lavender in Michigan: Advice for a purple garden.” https://www.canr.msu.edu/news/growing-lavender-in-michigan-advice-for-a-purple-garden

Epic Gardening. “How to Grow Lavender From Seed the Easy Way.” https://www.epicgardening.com/grow-lavender-from-seed/

Gardenia. “How to Propagate Lavender: From Seeds to Cuttings and Beyond.” https://www.gardenia.net/guide/how-to-propagate-lavender-step-by-step-methods-for-success

The Seed Vine. “Lavandula angustifolia – English Lavender (Organic).” https://theseedvine.com.au/product/lavender-english/

For the most current information on lavender cultivation for your specific region, consult your local native plant society or university extension service.