Reblooming Azaleas Care Guide: Fix Common Growing Problems

So here’s the thing about reblooming azaleas. Everyone sees those Encore azaleas at the garden center with tags promising spring, summer, AND fall blooms and thinks “yeah I need that.” Then they plant them, get a decent spring show, maybe some random flowers in summer, and by fall… not much.

I’ve been there. My first Encore azalea gave me like three flowers in fall the first year. I was pretty disappointed because the whole point was getting that fall color, you know?

But after actually digging into the research (and I mean the actual university studies, not just blog posts), I figured out what makes these plants tick. Turns out most people – including most articles online – are missing some really important stuff about how these plants actually work.

The short version is reblooming azaleas are legit, but they need specific conditions to pull off that second and third bloom. Just sticking them in the ground where your old azalea was isn’t gonna cut it.

What Actually Makes Them Different (The Science Part)

Regular azaleas form flower buds in late summer for the following spring. Those buds sit there dormant through winter, need 4-8 weeks below 50°F to wake up, then boom – spring flowers[1].

Reblooming varieties work totally differently. They’ve got this trait from a Taiwanese species called Rhododendron oldhamii that doesn’t play by normal azalea rules[1]. Instead of forming all their buds at once for spring, they keep making new flower buds on fresh growth starting around mid-July[1].

The University of Arkansas explains it like this: these plants have “relatively weak hold on flower bud dormancy” so buds start opening as temperatures cool down in fall rather than waiting for spring[1]. It’s basically a glitch in their system that breeders turned into a feature.

Here’s the catch nobody tells you – azaleas only produce a finite number of flower buds regardless of whether they rebloom or not. So buds that open in fall won’t be there for spring[1]. You’re not getting MORE total flowers, you’re spreading them across three seasons instead of cramming them all into April.

The Breakthrough That Started Everything

A guy named Robert “Buddy” Lee in Independence, Louisiana spent the early 1980s crossing that Taiwanese species with cold-hardy azaleas[2]. Took him years to get varieties that were both reblooming AND could handle zones colder than 8.

The result was the Encore series – first widely available reblooming azaleas. They hit the market in the late 1990s and people went nuts for them. University of Georgia called them “quite a stir” which is academic speak for “everyone freaked out”[2].

Since then there’s been Bloom-A-Thon, ReBLOOM, and Perfecto Mundo series too. But Encore still has the most varieties – 33 of them.

Why Your Reblooming Azalea Isn’t Reblooming

Problem #1: Not Enough Sun

This is the big one. Traditional azaleas are fine in part shade. Reblooming ones? They need way more light.

Most Encore varieties want 4-6 hours of direct sun daily[3]. That’s significantly more than regular azaleas which are happy with dappled shade. If your reblooming azalea is in the same shady spot where your old one did great, that’s probably your problem right there.

The extra sun is what drives that continuous growth and bud formation through summer. Not enough light means the plant can’t photosynthesize enough energy to both grow AND make flower buds.

Problem #2: Wrong Soil pH

Azaleas are super picky about soil acidity. They want pH between 4.5-6.0, with the sweet spot being 5.0-5.5[4][5][6].

Here’s what happens if pH is too high – iron and other micronutrients become chemically locked up in the soil even if they’re present. The plant literally can’t access them[7]. You’ll see yellow leaves with dark veins (chlorosis) and reduced flowering.

Test your soil before planting. County extension offices do it cheap. If pH is above 6.0, you gotta fix it. University of Georgia specifically says don’t use aluminum sulfate because it’s toxic to azalea roots[8]. Use wettable sulfur or ferrous sulfate instead.

Problem #3: Pruning at the Wrong Time

Every single university source says the same thing: don’t prune azaleas after July 1[9][10].

Why? Because traditional azaleas set their spring bloom buds in July-August. Prune after that and you’re cutting off next year’s flowers. With reblooming varieties it’s a bit different – they keep making buds on new growth – but the principle still applies.

The University of Arkansas recommends pruning reblooming types right after the spring flush of blooms fades[1]. That gives them maximum time to grow new shoots that’ll bloom in summer and fall.

If you prune in September or winter you’re removing all those fall buds and the plant has no time to make new ones.

Problem #4: Fertilizing Wrong (Or at the Wrong Time)

Fertilizing after August 1 is a bad idea with any azalea[11]. Late-season fertilizer pushes tender new growth that gets zapped by the first frost. The plant wastes energy growing stuff that’s gonna die anyway instead of hardening off for winter.

The main fertilization should happen right after spring blooms fade. Some sources say you can do a second application in mid-summer if you’re in the Deep South with long growing seasons[11], but for most people, once in late spring/early summer is enough.

As for what to use, Clemson University Extension warns that excessive nitrogen promotes foliage at the expense of flowers[12]. So skip the high-nitrogen lawn fertilizer. Use either a balanced 10-10-10 or something formulated for acid-loving plants like Holly-Tone (4-3-4).

Apply about 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet of root spread. Spread it evenly over the whole root zone (which extends about 3x beyond the drip line) without removing mulch. Water it in.

Problem #5: Water Issues

Drought during bud formation in late spring through summer means fewer fall blooms. The plant’s trying to make flower buds but if it’s stressed for water, blooming becomes a lower priority than survival.

Azaleas want consistently moist soil but NOT waterlogged. They have shallow, fibrous roots that dry out fast but also rot easily in soggy conditions[13].

Aim for about 1 inch of water per week during the growing season through rain or irrigation. Mulch helps a ton – 2-3 inches of pine bark, pine straw, or shredded leaves keeps moisture even and soil cool.

The Reblooming Series Compared

Encore Azaleas (33 varieties)

The OGs of reblooming. Developed by Buddy Lee starting in the 1980s.

Pros:

• Most varieties available
• Best sun tolerance (4-6 hours)
• Wide hardiness range – all hardy to zone 7, 24 varieties to 6b, 15-16 varieties to 6a[14]
• Sizes from dwarf (2-3 feet) to intermediate (4-5.5 feet)

Cons:

• Can be pricey
• Some varieties more vigorous than others

Notable ones:

• Autumn Royalty – magenta semi-double flowers, named 2004 Azalea of the Year by American Rhododendron Society[2]
• Autumn Fire – true red, zones 6-9
• Autumn Bonfire – also true red, zones 6-10

 

Bloom-A-Thon Series (5 varieties, Proven Winners)

Pros:

• Long bloom period – 4-6 weeks spring plus 12-16 weeks summer/fall
• Good flower power

Cons:

• Semi-evergreen (loses some leaves in cold winters)
• Needs more shade than Encore
• Several varieties discontinued and replaced by Perfecto Mundo

Hardiness: Zones 6-9

ReBLOOM Series (Greenleaf Nursery, 9 varieties)

Bred by Bob Head in North Carolina. Started with 80,000 seedlings and narrowed it down to 9[15].

Pros:

• Enhanced cold hardiness – parent plants hardy to -10 to -20°F
• Good variety in flower forms (single, double, triple-petal)
• Bred specifically with zones 6-7 in mind

Cons:

• Fewer varieties than Encore
• Less widely available

Hardiness: Zone 6 (withstands 0 to -10°F)

Perfecto Mundo Series (Proven Winners, 10+ varieties)

Bred by Dr. Tom Ranney at NC State.

Pros:

• Only reblooming series with all double-flower options
• Lacebug resistant (huge deal in some areas)
• Compact size (2-3′ tall × 3-4′ wide)
• One variety (Double Purple) hardy to zone 5b

Cons:

• Newer so less track record
• Smaller at maturity than some other series

Hardiness: Most zones 6b-9, one to 5b

Actually Planting Them Right

Site Selection

Pick the sunniest spot you can while avoiding harsh afternoon sun in really hot climates. Morning sun, afternoon shade is ideal in zones 8-9. Further north you can do more sun.

Avoid low spots where water pools or cold air settles. Don’t plant under shallow-rooted trees like maples that’ll compete for water and nutrients.

Soil Prep

Test pH first. If it’s above 6.0, work sulfur into the top 6-8 inches of soil several weeks before planting.

Mix in 2-3 inches of compost or well-aged pine bark. Azaleas want organic matter but good drainage. Heavy clay needs amending with bark or sand. Pure sand needs compost.

Planting Depth

This matters more than people think. Plant azaleas slightly high – the top of the root ball should be an inch or two above grade[16]. They have shallow roots that’ll suffocate if planted too deep.

Space them based on mature size. Dwarf varieties 3-4 feet apart. Intermediate 4-6 feet apart. Don’t crowd them or you’ll have fungal disease issues.

Initial Care

Water deeply at planting. Then water 2-3 times weekly for the first month if it doesn’t rain. After that, once a week for the rest of the first growing season.

Mulch right away with 2-3 inches of pine straw or shredded bark. Keep it 2 inches away from the main stems to prevent rot.

Don’t fertilize at planting. Wait until you see new growth, then use a light application of balanced fertilizer.

First Year Expectations (Managing Disappointment)

Here’s something important – first-year reblooming azaleas often don’t rebloom much. Sometimes they skip fall blooming entirely the first season.

Why? They’re busy establishing roots. All their energy goes into getting settled rather than making flowers. This is totally normal.

By year two you should see better rebloom. Year three is when they really hit their stride. So don’t give up if fall bloom is weak the first year. Give them time.

Seasonal Care Calendar

Spring (March-May)

• Fertilize after spring blooms start fading
• Prune if needed (do it early, before July)
• Check soil moisture as temperatures rise
• Watch for lace bugs (stippled leaves, black spots on undersides)

Summer (June-August)

• Water during dry spells (about 1 inch weekly)
• Deadheading is optional on reblooming types
• Stop fertilizing by August 1
• Watch for spider mites if it’s hot and dry

Fall (September-November)

• Enjoy the rebloom
• Maintain soil moisture
• Rake up fallen leaves that smother plants
• NO pruning or fertilizing

Winter (December-February)

• In zones 6-7, consider mulching higher around base once ground freezes
• Protect from winter sun and wind in coldest areas
• Remove heavy snow from branches
• Don’t prune yet

Troubleshooting Common Problems

Yellow Leaves with Dark Green Veins

Iron chlorosis. Usually means pH is too high. Test soil pH. If above 6.0, apply soil sulfur or ferrous sulfate. Quick fix is chelated iron foliar spray but that’s temporary.

Can also happen from poor drainage or root damage. Check that water isn’t pooling.

No Fall Blooms

Could be several things:

• Not enough sun (most common)
• Pruned too late in season
• Drought stress in summer
• Wrong variety (make sure it’s actually a reblooming type)
• First year (be patient)

Leaves Turning Brown at Edges

Probably salt or fertilizer burn. Azaleas are sensitive to salts. If you used too much fertilizer or if there’s road salt nearby, that’s your issue.

Flush soil with lots of water. Hold off on fertilizer for a while.

Lace Bugs

Tiny insects on leaf undersides. You’ll see stippling on top of leaves and black tar spots underneath.

Spray undersides of leaves with insecticidal soap or neem oil. Might need multiple applications. Perfecto Mundo series is resistant.

Dropping Leaves

Some leaf drop is normal in fall/winter even on “evergreen” azaleas, especially in colder zones. Excessive leaf drop during growing season usually means:

• Planted too deep
• Poor drainage
• Drought stress
• Root rot from overwatering

Not Growing Much

Azaleas are slow growers anyway. But if yours seems stuck:

• Check pH (wrong pH means they can’t absorb nutrients)
• Improve drainage if soil stays soggy
• Make sure it’s getting enough light
• Check for root weevils (notched leaf edges are the tell)

Varieties Worth Trying by Zone

Zone 6a (-10 to -5°F)

Encore varieties hardy this far:

• Autumn Amethyst (purple)
• Autumn Chiffon (pink bi-color)
• Autumn Coral (coral)
• Autumn Embers (orange-red)
• Autumn Rouge (deep pink)

ReBLOOM series – all varieties rated zone 6

Perfecto Mundo Double Purple – rated to zone 5b (even colder)

Zone 6b (-5 to 0°F)

Everything from 6a plus:

• Autumn Angel (white)
• Autumn Moonlight (white)
• Autumn Starburst (white with pink edges)

Most Perfecto Mundo varieties

Zone 7 (0 to 10°F)

All 33 Encore varieties are hardy here All Bloom-A-Thon varieties All ReBLOOM varieties All Perfecto Mundo varieties

Zones 8-9 (10°F and warmer)

Any reblooming azalea will work. Focus more on picking colors and sizes you like rather than cold hardiness.

In really hot areas (zone 9), afternoon shade becomes more important.

What to Skip

Osage Oranges/Hedge Apples in Mulch

Old folk remedy that some people still recommend. Iowa State researched it – doesn’t do anything for pest control[17]. Just clutters up your mulch.

Excessive Deadheading

With traditional azaleas you sometimes deadhead spent blooms to improve next year’s flowering. With reblooming types? Not really necessary and might actually reduce summer/fall bloom since they bloom on new growth.

If flowers look bad and you want to remove them for aesthetics, fine. But don’t feel like you have to.

Planting in Deep Shade

I’ve seen people plant reblooming azaleas in the same deep shade where their traditional azaleas did great. Then wonder why they don’t rebloom.

Reblooming types fundamentally need more sun. Don’t fight it.

Regional Considerations

Northeast (Zones 5b-7)

Winter protection matters here. Burlap screens to block wind and winter sun help. Pile mulch higher (4-6 inches) around base once ground freezes.

Spring bloom is reliable. Summer bloom is good in years with adequate moisture. Fall bloom can be hit or miss depending on first frost timing.

Best series: ReBLOOM and Perfecto Mundo for cold hardiness

Southeast (Zones 7-9)

You’ve got the ideal climate for reblooming azaleas. All three bloom periods are reliable.

Main challenges are lace bugs, heat stress, and summer drought. Afternoon shade helps in zone 9.

All series do well.

Midwest/Plains (Zones 5-7)

Wind protection is critical. Plant on east or south side of buildings or use shrubs as windbreaks.

Drying winter wind is often more damaging than cold temps. Burlap wraps help.

Late spring frosts can damage early growth. Site selection matters.

Best series: ReBLOOM for enhanced cold tolerance

Pacific Northwest (Zones 7-9)

Actually a great climate if you manage the pH. Soils here tend to be more neutral/alkaline so you’ll probably need sulfur amendments.

Excellent moisture usually means great bloom performance.

Watch for root rot in poorly drained sites.

All series work.

Southwest/Southern California (Zones 8-11)

Heat and alkaline soil are your main challenges. You’ll definitely need soil acidification and possibly need to grow in containers with acidic potting mix.

Morning sun, afternoon shade. Drip irrigation helps since overhead watering in dry climates can cause issues.

Probably not the easiest plant for this region honestly.

Container Growing

If your soil is terrible or pH is impossible to fix, containers work fine with reblooming azaleas.

Use a container at least 16-18 inches across for dwarf varieties, 20-24 inches for intermediate. Needs drainage holes obviously.

Fill with acidic potting mix – either azalea-specific mix or blend your own with pine bark, peat moss, and perlite.

Container plants dry out faster so water more frequently. Fertilize lighter but more often (half strength every 2-3 weeks during growing season).

In zones 6-7, containers need winter protection. Move to unheated garage or insulate heavily.

Repot every 3-4 years when rootbound.

Companion Planting

What looks good with reblooming azaleas:

Spring:

• Early bulbs (they’ll be done before azaleas leaf out fully)
• Hellebores
• Bleeding heart
• Ferns (consistent all season)

Summer/Fall:

• Japanese forest grass (chartreuse color contrasts well)
• Hostas (for shade)
• Heuchera/coral bells
• Autumn fern (bronze new growth)
• Toad lily (blooms fall when azaleas do)

Year-round structure:

• Boxwood
• Holly
• Evergreen ferns
• Liriope/mondo grass as edging

Is It Worth It?

Real talk – reblooming azaleas cost more than traditional ones. You’re looking at $30-60 per plant vs $15-25 for regular azaleas. Are they worth the extra cost?

Depends on your situation:

Worth it if:

• You have a sunny spot (4+ hours direct sun)
• Your soil pH is or can be made 5.0-6.0
• You want extended bloom season
• You’re willing to do proper care (water, fertilize on schedule, don’t prune late)

Skip it if:

• You only have shady spots
• Soil is alkaline and you don’t want to amend it
• You’re looking for truly low-maintenance
• You’re fine with one spring bloom period

They’re not magic plants. They won’t thrive in conditions where regular azaleas struggle. But in the right situation with proper care, you really do get that spring, summer, and fall bloom cycle.

The Bottom Line

Reblooming azaleas are legit when you understand what they actually need. The problem is most people plant them like traditional azaleas and then get disappointed.

Key things to remember:

• They need more sun than traditional azaleas (4-6 hours direct)
• Soil pH has to be 5.0-6.0 or they won’t perform
• Don’t prune after July 1
• Stop fertilizing by August
• First year bloom is often weak (be patient)
• Water consistently during bud formation (late spring-summer)

Get those basics right and you’ll actually get the reblooming everyone wants. Mess up on any of them and you’re basically just growing an expensive traditional azalea.

Start with 1-2 plants rather than going all-in. Pick varieties rated for your zone. Give them ideal conditions. See how they perform. Then expand if you like what you see.

These aren’t plants to scatter randomly around the landscape hoping they’ll figure it out. They’re specimens that deserve good spots and proper care. Treat them right and that fall bloom is absolutely worth it.

---

Sources

[1] University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture Extension Service. “Rhododendron Fall Blooming Azaleas.” October 6, 2017. https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/10-06-2017-Ark-Rhododendron-Fall-Blooming-Azaleas.aspx

[2] University of Georgia CAES Newswire. “Encore Azaleas Creating Quite a Stir.” https://newswire.caes.uga.edu/story/1829/15-stirring-encore-azalea.html

[3] University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture Extension Service. “Encore Azalea” by Gerald Klingaman, Extension Horticulturist. October 14, 2005. https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/resource-library/plant-week/azalea-encore-10-14-05.aspx

[4] Clemson University Cooperative Extension, Home & Garden Information Center. “Azalea Care,” Factsheet HGIC 1059. Updated September 5, 2019. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/azalea-care/

[5] University of Florida IFAS Extension. “Florida Azaleas.” https://sfyl.ifas.ufl.edu/lawn-and-garden/florida-azaleas/

[6] University of Missouri Extension. “Growing Azaleas and Rhododendrons,” Publication G6825. https://extension.missouri.edu/publications/g6825

[7] University of Florida IFAS Gardening Solutions. “Azaleas.” https://gardeningsolutions.ifas.ufl.edu/plants/trees-and-shrubs/shrubs/azaleas/

[8] University of Georgia Extension. “Selecting and Growing Azaleas,” Bulletin B-670. Authors: Gary L. Wade, S. Kristine Braman, Jean Williams Woodward; Revised by Bodie V. Pennisi. https://secure.caes.uga.edu/extension/publications/files/html/B670/B670.html

[9] Piedmont Master Gardeners. “What’s So Special About Azaleas and Rhododendrons?” https://piedmontmastergardeners.org/article/whats-so-special-about-azaleas-and-rhododendrons/

[10] NC State University Extension. “Spring Pruning Do’s & Don’ts.” Richmond County Extension. March 2016. https://richmond.ces.ncsu.edu/2016/03/spring-pruning-dos-donts/

[11] Encore Azalea Official. “How to Fertilize Encore Azaleas (A Guide).” https://encoreazalea.com/plant-care/how-to-fertilize-encore-azaleas/

[12] Clemson University Cooperative Extension, Home & Garden Information Center. “Azalea Care,” Factsheet HGIC 1059. https://hgic.clemson.edu/factsheet/azalea-care/

[13] Mississippi State University Extension Service. “Azaleas for the Landscape.” https://extension.msstate.edu/publications/azaleas-for-the-landscape

[14] Encore Azalea Official. “26 Cold-Hardy Encore Azalea Varieties (Zone 6).” https://encoreazalea.com/plant-care/26-cold-hardy-encore-azaleas/

[15] Greenleaf Nursery Company. “ReBLOOM™ Azaleas Deliver Color in Three Seasons!” https://www.greenleafnursery.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/whatsnew.detail/recID/67/index.htm

[16] University of Arkansas Division of Agriculture Extension. “Azalea.” https://www.uaex.uada.edu/yard-garden/in-the-garden/reference-desk/shrubs/azalea.aspx

[17] Burke Museum, University of Washington. “Myth: Spider repellants.” https://www.burkemuseum.org/collections-and-research/biology/arachnology-and-entomology/spider-myths/myth-spider-repellants